by: Frank Indiviglio
petsplace.com
To a captive amphibian, health and home are synonymous. Captive
amphibians don't adjust well to adverse conditions; instead,
they often get sick.
This diverse group presents unique challenges, as each species
generally uses several habitats. There are nearly 400 types
of salamanders, 4,000 frogs and 160 caecilians, all with varying
needs, so be sure to research your individual species carefully.
Enclosure
Your pet’s enclosure must closely match its natural
habitat, as most amphibians adapt poorly to an environmental
change. Green tree frogs, for example, languish without climbing
opportunities, and still water species such as the dwarf clawed
frog cannot take vigorous filtration. Even those that do well
in “bare bones” setups, such as the axolotl, have
very specific requirements for temperature and water quality.
Community exhibits are difficult, as most amphibians will
swallow cage mates of nearly their own size, and some, such
as the horned frog, are specifically adapted to do this. Many
have toxic skin secretions, which means that both dinner and
diner may perish.
Even terrestrial species, such as the American toad, require
moist surroundings so substrates which hold water are the
rule. Sphagnum moss, carpet moss, dead leaves and potting
soil/peat moss mix will suffice, although some types, such
as the tomato frog, may swallow these and become impacted.
Aquarium filter pads make a good, non-edible artificial substrate.
Gravel, if used, must be above swallowing size.
Temperature
Most amphibians favor temperatures in the 55 to 68 degree
Fahrenheit range (some much cooler), and even tropical species,
such as the palm salamander, dwell in cool microhabitats.
Nearly all require a basement or air-conditioned room during
warm weather. Few, if any, require an ultra-violet light source.
Cycles
A day/night cycle patterned on your pet’s natural habitat
is important and a cool or dry period may be required for
successful breeding. Various species may also need a “rainy
season” (red-eyed tree frog), large groups (spotted
salamander) or extensive pools (American bullfrog) if reproduction
is to be achieved. Improperly cycled females often retain
eggs and perish. Properly cycled male frogs call incessantly
and you may need to reverse their day/night cycle if you are
to get any sleep.
Feeding and Water
Tiny active species like poison frogs require daily feedings,
“average” types like White’s tree frog will
eat 3 to 4 times per week and vertebrate feeders like African
bullfrogs need but one meal per week. The vast majority consume
only live food, such as wild caught insects, crickets, wax
worms, earthworms, roaches, fish and pink nix. Many aquatic
salamanders like the fire-bellied newt and African-clawed
frogs do well on commercial pellets and trout chow. Feeder
insects should be fed tropical fish flakes, limestone and
vegetables, and should be coated with a vitamin powder (once
per week for adult pets, three times per week for juveniles).
Waste products are often colorless and odorless, and are
quickly absorbed back through the porous skin. Therefore,
water must be changed daily and careful attention must be
given to the filtration for aquatic species, such as the mud
puppy. Water should be de-chlorinated (drops are sold at pet
stores) and delicate species (such as spring salamanders)
do best in bottled water or with a reverse osmosis system.
Medical Care
The medical needs of our amphibians receive scant attention,
so a competent veterinarian will be hard to find. Fecal tests
should be run to check for internal parasites. Commonly encountered
problems include heat stress (pacing, then lethargy) egg retention
(swollen abdomen), cloacal prolapse (tissue protruding from
cloaca) and septicemia (red patches on lower legs and abdomen).
Copyright Petsplace.com
Reprinted from http://petplace.netscape.com/articles/artShow.asp?artID=3634
